Drivers Side Dock Lock Central Locking thingy

[Brackaus]

Hey,

So after the second attempt (I assumed) to try and break into my car, I got a car alarm.. but found out i need the Dock Lock kit installed.. mine doesn't have any? it's the OEM part "58-310"



It looks like that.. I know the RHDJapan has them.. but it's a 5-10 week wait and then 2 week shipping on top.. I was wondering if any of you racers have removed this from a door and it's sitting around doing nuttin?

Any help?.. Ideas?

Cheers.
Simon

[Black Talon]

First... 58-310 is not a complete part number. It's the diagram reference for a part.

There are two ways to go about this...

1... Put a generic aftermarket door lock solenoid in the door, and wire it directly to your alarm. This in itself isn't easy as there is very little space in the door for it. The way the factory wiring runs into the door is also a bit of a pain as it has a massive plug in the body between the dash harness and the door harness.that makes it hard to run the wires for the central locking into the door.

2... Use the factory option door lock that has a solenoid built into it (the pic you posted). It replaces the original door lock. BUT, this is not all that's required. You will also need the patch harness for the door lock. This does not have a part number of it's own, as it was only ever supplied with the whole kit, which was an option from the dealer. You will also need a new door lock timer (little black box) that was also a part of the dealer kit. It replaces the one in the car, and goes under the dash. This has a part number and can be purchased on it's own but it's not cheap. That little black box also requires a patch harness, as it doesn't plug straight in. That patch harness also does not have it's own part numer, but can be made easily enough yourself if you have any electrical ablilty.

Option 2 also requires that you run extra wires into the door to operate it, same as option 1, with the same issues.


I have the proper part numbers for the timer box and the door lock at home if you're interested. You could also get away with making both patch harnesses yourself, but the one for the actual door lock may be hard to find the plugs.

I know all this because I recently converted my car from option 1 to option 2. I originally did option 1 way back when I got my FD and it's been nothing but problems for 12 years. It sucks and never works well. Also, if you do it wrong, you can snap the interior door lock cables (ask me how I know). Option 2 works properly every time, and uses factory parts which is always a good thing, but it can be hard to get all the bits.

Option 1 can be done for about $20. Option 2 may end up costing you ten times that or more. I'm happy that I finally got it working properly with all the factory bits.

I can post up more info when I get home later tonight.

[Brackaus]

Thanks heaps for the info!!!!!!!, I've seen other FD's with keyless remotes and working.. but i never knew i was missing so many parts? I had a Green box under my dash that wasn't connected and a black box inside my door that looks like a sensor?

RHDJapan is selling that part

http://www.rhdjapan.com/mazda-oem-do...-310-fd3s.html

As an OEM door lock, but does it include the extra things you said.. I'm worried even more know..

Is there anyone in brisbane that sells these?

[Black Talon]

Hang on then. If your car has that stuff, you shouldn't need to buy anything. Does your passenger door lock and unlock when you use the key in the driver's door...?

The black box in the door is the remote receiver unit for the factory stuff. The green box under the dash that's not connected is the factory door lock timer that needs to be replaced when the factory remote setup is fitted.

Is the black box in the door connected to anything...? If the answer is yes then you have everything there.

If you unplug that black box in the door, there should be 4 wires in the plug. A blue power wire, a black earth wire, then two trigger wires (both red and something). Those two trigger wires are what you would need to connect to your aftermarket alarm (you won't need the black box in the door, or the power and earth wires). Applying power to one will lock the doors and applying power to the other one will unlock them.

You will still of course have the hassle of running the two wires from your alarm into the door to connect to those two trigger wires. But that should be all you need to do.

Just out of interest, what does your key look like...? Does it have buttons on it, or is it a regular key. I reckon your car has it all fitted, and the key with the remote got lost at some point.

[Brackaus]

I should of taken pictures when the panel was removed.

My key looks like a normal key from the early 90's.. Plain metal. and only one of them.. soo yeah maybe i could be missing that? If lock or unlock the drivers the passengers side unlocks too, but that's because of the metal rod that's connected. If i unlock or lock the passengers it does nothing to the drivers.

The black box we found was near the bottom right of the door. and yeah it has one plug (4 or 5 wires) into it.

i would still need that plug thing from RHD as well though right? I mean we couldn't find anything motor or anything for keyless?

[wjp005]

I can help with the factory parts including harness

[Black Talon]

I should of taken pictures when the panel was removed.

My key looks like a normal key from the early 90's.. Plain metal. and only one of them.. soo yeah maybe i could be missing that? If lock or unlock the drivers the passengers side unlocks too, but that's because of the metal rod that's connected. If i unlock or lock the passengers it does nothing to the drivers.

The black box we found was near the bottom right of the door. and yeah it has one plug (4 or 5 wires) into it.

i would still need that plug thing from RHD as well though right? I mean we couldn't find anything motor or anything for keyless?

You don't need to buy anything except an alarm. You only need to wire the alarm to the wires that run to that black box in the door as I mentioned above.

The driver's door is acting as a master, and the passenger is the slave. This is how it should be. The passenger door NEVER triggers the driver's door. But because yours is doing it with the green box under the dash disconnected, you MUST have all the parts for the factory remote locking except for the remote.

The motor for the driver's door is in the actual lock itself (which is what you posted a pictiure of first up).

All you need to worry about doing is getting two wires from the alarm in the car (where ever you decide to fit it), into the door to connect to the wiring that goes to that little black box (you won't need the box either).

There is one other option, and that is to get a factory remote, and somehow code it to your car. It's not an alarm, but it is remote central locking.

[Brackaus]

Sorry about the slow reply, I was waiting to see if the place i'm getting the alarm installed contacts me back about what they managed to get... Nothing yet.. quality.

So I think i need to take the door off and take photos. If you have a picture of that this black box looks like then i can see if it matches what i found. The Green box wasn't even connected to anything and i've taken the door handle off and there was no motor on it? Actually i couldn't even find any motor on the door at all.

So I'm guessing i still need to order that part? I'll email wjp005 about it.

You've been so fkn helpful! cheers heaps!

[Black Talon]

You won't see a motor on the door lock at all. You will only see white plastic covers on everything with 4 wires (or sometimes more) coming out of it.

I told you why the green box under the dash is disconnected... This is disconnected when the dealer option remote kit is fitted. If the passenger door is acting as a slave to the driver's door with the green box disconnected, then you should have everything you need already fitted. Seriously, you need to go back and read what I have previously posted. I've tried to help you, and for some reason you insist on not paying attention.


Stock door with no remote locking fitted contains:

A door lock with minimal white plastic on it, which can all be removed easily. It will have a single tiny black microswitch fitted to the top of it which is what activates the passenger door via the green box under the dash. There will be no little black box in the door, and the wires from the door lock will connect directly to the door harness via a white plug with 3 wires in it, up high at the back of the door.

The green box under the dash is the factory timer unit which is what makes the passenger door lock as a slave.


If you have all the bits for the remote locking fitted you will find the following:

The door lock has a lot of white plastic on it that can't be removed. There will NOT be a little microswitch at the top of it. There are 4 wires, and they will come out of the bottom of the thing from the white plastic part (sometimes 6 wires).

These wires will have a small square 4 pin plug (and sometimes an additional 2 pin plug that you don't need to worry about). That will NOT plug directly into the door harness, but rather into a patch harness. This patch harness will plug into the factory door harness in two places. One is the white 3 pin plug at the top rear of the door, and the other is a single blue wire again at the top of the door, but further towards the middle of the length of the door (the extra plug if your particular one has it also plugs in to a third plug near the single blue wire, you don't need to worry about this one though, it does something else entirely).

Also connected to that patch harness will be the little black box mounted low in the door that you say you have found. That little black box is the remote receiver for the factory remote locking kit. It will have a 4 pin plug. There will be a blue wire, which is power, a black wire which is earth, and two different red wires which are the triggers for the lock and unlock signals.

Under the dash you will also find another small black box on a patch harness somewhere. It will be mounted using double sided tape in most cases, and a lot of times gets mounted to the inside of the lower dash panel (but not always). This is the new door timer that replaces the green one.


Now, you have said that the original green timer box is disconnected. You have also said that the passenger door acts as a slave and lock/unlocks when you use the key in the driver's door. These two little bits of info alone (if true) tell me your car has the driver's door lock with the motor in it, the patch harness in the door, and that the new black timer box is connected somewhere under the dash with it's patch harness. If either one of the door lock or the new timer unit were NOT connected, then the passenger door WOULD NOT lock and unlock when you use the key in the driver's door with the green box disconnected.

The little black reciever box in the door is not required if you are fitting an aftermarket alarm. BUT you will need to connect the alarm to the two red signal wires in the patch harness that it plugs into.


Take pics of the wiring in the door and I will point out exactly which part is which.

Take the door lock out again and take pics of it too, and I will show you a pic of one that DOES NOT have the motor built into it.

Go searching under the dash for the extra little black door timer box. It will be on a short patch harness somewhere. The plug on the box will be a 6 pin plug, and the plug on the other end will be an 8 pin plug. Actually, here is a pic of one, with the patch harness, and also the factory green one for comparison...





Like I said earlier, I recently did all this work to my own FD, as in the last couple of months. I know what I'm talking about, and I know how the system works.

Feel free to spend money though. But if everything you have said is true, then you simply don't need to.

[Brackaus]

Right, Looks like i have my Weekend task ahead of me!

You legend!

[wjp005]

Ask and you shall receive. Door guts, loom, keyless unit with key fob, lock assembly, timer and relays (can supply wiring tails/plugs and brackets too)

This all came out of a 1999 RS.

[wjp005]

FYI, have also stripped an FD that had an aftermarket unit adapted like this. Seemed to function fine and had a fancy tracking alarm.

[Brackaus]

We can close this, Thanks so much peeps! so the parts arrived and we found out that i do already have that part but it was broken (so awesome it was an easy swap) thus they disconnected it from japan. Having OEM parts makes it so much better. Now i can part in my garage with confidence.